#YellowtraceTravels: Rome, Italy.

#HTE

Italian flag waving in front of Altare della Patria (Altar of the Fatherland) a.k.a “II Vittoriano” – a giant monument built in honour of Victor Emmanuel, the first king of a unified Italy. Tourists often refer to the building with nicknames like “The Wedding Cake”, while the Romans commonly call it “The Typewriter”.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Ahhhh, Bella Roma… I honestly don’t even know where to start. My mind is racing and heart is pumping thinking back to the magical week we spent here in April (just before kicking off this little project). To say that writing about our experience in the Eternal City is slightly overwhelming is the understatement of the century. Why? Because! We are talking about Rome for god’s sake – one of the most visited destinations in the world, the city many of you most-likely already have your own relationship with.

Rome truly is a city like no other. This trip was my second time there, and I found it just as mesmerising, mind-boggling and awe-inspiring as the first time. Walking the streets of Rome at times feels completely surreal. The depth and breadth of history is astonishing. So many times I felt like I was right inside a history book, literally catching myself with my mouth wide open (most un-lady like) in disbelief that I was standing in front of something so remarkable and SO OLD. It made my brain hurt trying to work out how long ago that ‘something’ was built. And we are not just talking major monuments here, like the Colosseum, Pantheon, Roman Forum, etc. Evidence of epic history is profound and palpable, and ruins can be found literally everywhere. Nick and I coined a term ‘Random Ruin’ because there is so much of it around – “Hey what’s this side of the building? What’s that column? OMG it’s huge. Is it a ‘thing’? Is it on the map? Nah, it’s just some Random Ruin.” You know, intelligent, highly articulate, grown-up conversation – cause that’s the way we roll.

Clearly, with so much ancient history in one place, and arguably the best sightseeing in the world, you are going to trip up on your fair share of tourists. As in thousands upon thousands of tourists, many of which travel in groups wearing dorky matching hats for ease of spotting in the crowds, or following their fearless leader who waves their stick with some hideous colourful charm-thing hanging off it’s end – again, for ease of spotting in the crowds. The tourists are hardcore, and everywhere, and at times, it can all get a bit overwhelming and intense, especially if you’re someone who prefers to stay off the beaten path and follow the road less travelled. Well, I’m sorry to say that Rome, unlike most other cities is a bit of an exception. This is the city where you must, MUST do all the usual places, and tick off all the big sights, because they are breathtaking and cannot be missed. You simply have to embrace your inner tourist, make peace with other tourists while you’re at it, and pretend you’re not the kind of person who would, like, never go somewhere the Lonely Planet guide recommends.

Having said all this, as mesmerising and awe-inspiring as Rome is, sometimes it’s the hidden attractions that retain a certain magical, exclusive allure. Special walking paths, a hidden restaurant, the back entrance – these are not always reserved for the wealthy and the privileged. Often it’s just a case of having the inside information – knowing where to look, who to ask, where to stay and what to eat. In most cases, the city’s real charms are only unlocked with insider knowledge and word-of-mouth recommendations, something we’ve carefully gathered on your behalf. With this in mind, I hope you find today’s story informative and useful when planning your next visit (scroll down the post for more tips and our killer walking tour of Rome).

Always,
Mama Yellowtrace xx

Team Yellowtrace have flown to Rome courtesy of Cathay Pacific, who fly to Italy (Rome & Milan) daily. Cathay’s great connections from Australia allow getting from Sydney to Italy in under 25 hours, including transit times. For more information visit cathaypacific.com.au.

Our trip started the right way, courtesy of our friends at Cathay Pacific. We spent several hours in Cathay Pacific’s The Pier – First Class Lounge in Hong Kong (remember?), and I can honestly say that no amount of time in this lounge would ever be enough.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Cathay Pacific’s The Pier First Class Lounge is the only lounge I’ve visited that makes me want to stay and vacay at the actual lounge. Is that weird? After doing a little bit of work, Nick and I had an amazing a la carte meal, read some mags in the library, got a heavenly foot & neck massage, had a drink at the bar, had a shower in my own private suite… Seriously out of control, and it made such a huge difference to start the trip the right way.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Apart from the most incredible lounge I wish I could permanently move into, Cathay Pacific business class is ‘The Business’. From their impeccable service, to delicious meals and everything else – this is the perfect way to travel in style. I mean, they even arranged Will Ferrell as my dinner date (even though I almost spilled all my food from laughing so much).
Photography © Dana Tomic Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Ta-da! Once we arrived in Bella Roma, we were treated to this view of the recently refurbished Trevi Fountain, which is super close to where we were staying. Strategically cropped out of frame are 12,487,378 tourists taking selfies in front of the fountain. With selfie sticks, of course. So hot. Not.
Photography © Dana Tomic Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

CasaCau apartments were our home for the week. This place was Italian vintage heaven, located just a hop and a skip away from the Trevi Fountain.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Our room at CasaCau – seriously cooltown.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

More from CasaCau, which was way too cool for just a couple of pics, so we will bring you a separate post about our stay here. Stay tuned!
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Left: The magnificent Trevi Fountain recently underwent a major 2.2-million-euro restoration courtesy of Fendi. Trevi is the largest Baroque fountain in the city and one of the most famous fountains in the world. Trevi appeared in several famous films, including Fellini’s La Dolce Vita. Legend says that, if you wish to return to Rome, you need to throw a coin into the fountain using the right hand over the left shoulder. An estimated 3,000 Euros are thrown into the fountain each day. Blimey! Btw, the best time to see the fountain is early in the morning (as per Exhibit A, before the tourists descended upon it with their selfie sticks), in the afternoon when it’s bathed in sunshine (but you will have to elbow 54,498 other people in the process) and in the evening, when the foundation gets lit up from below. So beautiful. Right: Piazza di Pietra (stone) shows the monumental Temple of Hadrian. Directly opposite the temple is Salotto 42 – a great place for an evening drink with an incredible view of the temple lit up at night.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

I know I’m in Europe when I see chestnut street stalls on every corner – not only does this sight bring back memories from my childhood, I also really love the smell and the taste of roasted chestnuts. Note the accidental pom-pom head garland on the guy on the left. Top points to Nick for timing!
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Cafe Tazza d’oro is a Roman institution, and sits right next to the Pantheon. This place serves the best coffee Nick and I’ve had anywhere in Italy. Ever. Massive statement, but we both stand by it. We tried their espressos, macchiatos, and cappuccinos – all equally brilliant. Next time you’re in Rome, you must go here! P.S. There’s another really famous place around the corner called Sant’Eustachio Il Caffè, which is really charming and serves pretty good coffee, but my money is on Tazza d’oro as a place for better coffee. I’m a coffee snob like that.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Oh boy – it’s the Pantheon!
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

The entrance to Pantheon.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Oh man… Looking at these images of Pantheon brings back so many emotions.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Pantheon is by far my favourite building in Rome, in Italy, possibly in The World. It’s so very special, and incredibly moving – the feeling of standing under that dome is difficult to sum up in words.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Pantheon was the first building that made me cry some 9 years ago. This time, it had a profound effect on me once again. We were lucky to have stayed so close to Pantheon this time, which meant we walked past it and went inside it almost every day we were in Rome.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Scenes from Piazza della Rotonda, in front of the Pantheon. Dapper Italian police officers and the horses with doily headpieces stole my heart.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Piazza della Rotonda, and Pantheon at night. This very special building deserves it’s own post, don’t you think? Stay tuned for more soon.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Dear L’Antica Salumeria at Piazza della Rotonda – you had me at prosciutto ceiling canopy and stinky cheese smell inside. F**k I love Italy!
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

The fashionable Via Condotti begins at the foot of the Spanish steps (currently under wraps for a major restoration), containing the greatest number of Rome-based Italian fashion retailers, and is the equivalent to Milan’s Via Montenapoleone and Paris’ Rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honoré. Here you will find Dior, Gucci, Valentino, Hermès, Armani, Prada, Ferragamo, Céline, Dolce & Gabbana, Bulgari, Louis Vuitton… You get the picture? Also, the street gets completely slammed on Saturdays – it literally feels like you’re attending some kind of day festival.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Just off Via Condotti, on Piazza di Spagna is the Valentino flagship designed by David Chipperfield. Holy mother f@$#&%g $hit! It’s easily one of the most beautiful luxury fashion stores I’ve ever seen, and it’s HUGE. Must visit. Also, I resisted making a purchase and still think about the shoes, so don’t do the same as me, ok?
Photography © Dana Tomic Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Marble, terrazzo, brick, brass, leather and blackened steel heaven at the Valentino flagship by David Chipperfield. The material palette changes across men’s, women’s, ready-to-wear and shoes, creating slightly different moods, but overall the feel remains beautifully balanced and rich, but calm. Seriously too beautiful.
Photography © Dana Tomic Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Left: Gucci boutique on Via Condotti nailing it in the blinnngggg stair department. Right: Entry to Fendi Private Suites by Dimore Studio. *Side note: Prada Men’s on Via Condotti is one of the most amazing Prada stores I’ve seen. Bummed we didn’t take any photos, but if you’re around – must take a peek. Extreme coolness.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Palazzo Fendi Rome. It’s pretty major. Left: 3D travertine wall cladding inside Fendi flagship pays tribute to the company’s sublime head office building in E.U.R. Insane! Right: More blinnngggg marble stair action. Wowzer.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Scenes from Palazzo Fendi including a functioning atelier for Fendi fur. Ka-ching!
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

When it comes to Posh Roman hotness, it’s difficult to go past Hotel de Russie on Via del Babuino.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Beautiful garden setting for the restaurant of Hotel de Russie. The terrace is a great place for a lux aperitivo, or you can have lunch or dinner at the restaurant in the garden. Or do as we did and have brunch there on the weekend. Great people watching included.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Brunching at Hotel de Russie, and checking out the hot marble mosaics in the bathrooms. Naturally.
Photography © Dana Tomic Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Piazza del Popolo, facing one of the two famous churches on the edges of the square (the other one was hoarded up because of renovations).
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Aperitivo time at Piazza del Popolo. #TheBest. By the way, there are two cafes on opposing corners on Piazza del Popolo – the story goes that one is right wing, the other is left wing. So which one did we chose? The one that got the sun in the afternoon!
Photography © Dana Tomic Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

MAXXI Museum (National Museum of the 21st Century Arts) designed by the late Zaha Hadid. The museum was completed in 2009, after 10 years in the making.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

The arresting interior of Zaha Hadid’s MAXXI Museum. The building left me with mixed emotions, but it definitely deserves a closer look, so stay tuned for a separate post in the coming weeks.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Serious art appreciation going on at MAXXI by Team Yellowtrace. In case you ever wondered about the key difference between females and males… hahaha!
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

The best way to explore Rome is on foot. There are many amazing walking paths you could set out on, and here’s the one we did on our second day – allowing us to see A LOT of Rome. (Note – we started at 7am and walked until 7pm, then walked to dinner – that’s circa 25km+ for the day – so be prepared to wear super comfortable shoes, and by that I mean sneakers, and by sneakers I mean runners. Ok? Good.)

7am start at the Trevi Fountain before the crowds set in – you will see it with nobody else around, which is amazing. Walk past Piazza di Pietra (Temple of Hadrian), to Pantheon, and have your morning coffee/ pastry at Tazza d’oro Caffé. For our money, Best coffee in Italy!

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